Paint that would last a decade in Manchester can look tired here in three or four years — and paint that was the wrong choice in the first place can start flaking in one.
The problems this usually solves
- Render gone chalky, leaving white powder on your hand when you touch the wall
- One elevation faded several shades lighter than the rest, almost always the south or west face
- Hairline crazing across the render, which lets water in behind the coating
- Flaking and blistering where a previous coat was put on over damp or dusty render
- Green or black staining on north-facing walls and anywhere sheltered
- White salt marks pushing through from inside the wall — see efflorescence
What's included
- Wash down. The whole surface cleaned, and treated for algae or mould where it's present.
- Render repairs. Cracks opened up, filled and made good. Loose or hollow render cut out and replaced.
- Stabilising primer on chalky or powdery surfaces. Without it the new coat binds to dust, not wall — and comes off in sheets.
- Masking and protection. Windows, doors, garden furniture, terraces, pool surrounds and planting all covered.
- Two full coats of a flexible masonry coating suited to the substrate and the elevation.
- All the fiddly bits — sills, reveals, soffits, downpipes, gates, grilles and balustrades — because leaving them is what makes a repaint look half-done.
- Everything cleared and washed down at the end.
Choosing the coating
There isn't a single right answer, and anyone who quotes one before seeing the property is guessing. It depends on:
- What's already on the wall. Old-fashioned lime-based or highly porous coatings need something breathable; a modern acrylic doesn't.
- How exposed the elevation is. A seafront wall at Punta Prima and a sheltered inland courtyard at Benijofar want different products.
- Whether the render is cracking. Fine crazing needs a flexible coating with some elasticity that will bridge movement rather than split with it.
- Colour. Very dark colours absorb enormous heat on a south wall, move more, and fade faster. Worth knowing before you choose.
More detail in our guide to exterior paint for Spanish villas.
Suits
Detached and semi-detached villas · townhouses and quads · bungalows · apartment blocks and communal exteriors · boundary walls, gates and railings · pool surrounds and terraces
“Phill recently painted the exterior of our villa and what a lovely job he has done again. We are so pleased with the end result.”
FAQs
When's the best time of year to paint an exterior here?
Spring and autumn. High summer is workable but the surface temperature on a south wall can be too hot for the coating to form properly, so work shifts round the building through the day. Deep winter is fine as long as it's dry.
How often will it need doing again?
Typically every six to ten years on this coast, depending on exposure and the coating used. There's more on the signs to look for in how often to repaint a Costa Blanca exterior.
Do you do the gates and railings too?
Yes — and it's a big part of the work. There's a separate page on metalwork because it needs treating differently from render.
Can you change the colour completely?
Yes, though check your community rules first. Some urbanisations on the Orihuela Costa specify permitted exterior colours, and it's much easier to find out before the first coat than after.
Do we need to be there?
No. A lot of exterior work is done for owners who are in the UK at the time, with photos sent through as it goes.